Rafting the Nile

Life has become much more spontaneous over here.  So when some local ex-pats asked me if I would like to go rafting with them in Uganda that weekend, I jumped at the chance.  Going to Uganda for me is cheap, as there is no entry fee on an Irish passport.  The girls also had accommodation for us, so all I had to pay was my bus fare and the cost of rafting.

Having never been white-water rafting before, I was not too sure what to expect.  The thought of being on the Nile was incredibly exciting too.  And the chance to visit a new country!  We got the coach from Nyabugogo at 9am on the Friday morning. It was surprisingly comfortable with quite a reasonable amount of leg room.  It only took us 90mins to reach the border and then we had to go through immigration formalities before boarding the bus again.  This being Rwanda, I met someone I knew at the border crossing who was travelling in the opposite direction.  It seems impossible to go anywhere without seeing a familiar face!

Over the other side of the border, the roads deteriorated somewhat.  African roads being what they are and coach suspension being what it is (combined with the fact we had bought the last available tickets on the bus so we were sat at the back) meant it was a VERY bumpy journey.  Also we were surrounded by a group of very loud men, who saw fit to accentuate every word of the conversation with a punch on the back of my seat (it was inevitable that we would come to blows and that the teacher voice would have to make an appearance – which it did and they were very good and stopped it).  I felt it necessary to avoid the loud conversation and very bad soundtrack (Brown Girl in the Ring, for example) by putting in my headphones and zoning out.  I managed this for most of the 9hr journey to Kampala.

As a Geographer, the journey was fascinating.  We passed fields of poly-tunnels full of flowers being grown for export and huge papyrus swamps lined the roadsides.  At one point we passed a very long UN truck convoy.  A highlight was crossing the Equator.  I felt the coach driver missed a trick here – he could have had us all off the bus to take a photo...he clearly wasn’t a Geography nerd.  The journey continued and we passed lots of what looked like crumbling villages.  I eventually realised these were actually brick kilns.  We also saw loads of cows with MASSIVE horns.  As always, looking at the names of businesses is enlightening and it turns out that Alexander McCall Smith is probably quoting actual business names in his books.  We saw (to name a few) Sparkle bar and lodge, Alleluia Hardware, Tender Talents Primary School, Feel Better Guest House, God Bless Vocational College and Thanks to God Stationery Store.

We eventually arrived in Kampala where there was much hustle and bustle.  Loads of litter was piled up along the roadsides – much of it discarded plastic bottles.  Besides all this there were shopping malls and cinemas!  And no staring as we walked along the street.  There were also some reassuring signs of home – such as Shell petrol stations.


Surviving our first rapid

Calm and peaceful flat water

We stayed the night in Kampala and got picked up early the next morning to go to Jinja for rafting.  It was an incredible experience.  We began with a briefing at the backpackers who ran the trip and then we were kitted out with life jackets and helmets.  Then we set off for the Nile – passing the Bujugali Dam on the way (nerd alert:  this was in the WJEC Geog exam paper in 2005 (I think)).  It is forbidden to take photos and I wanted to raft, not go to jail...  Once we arrived at the river we were assigned to boats and given an oar.  Then whilst we were on flat water, we were taught how to paddle and how to survive the raft flipping (not so much fun as you get dunked and the boat whacks you on the head and you have to avoid an army of large wooden oars at the same time as trying to stop yourself from drowning!).  We mastered this and were allowed to attempt our first rapid.  Apparently it was a grade 3 (the rapids were graded 1 = easy to 5 = hard).  It was terrifying.  Just looking at all the angry white water was enough to make me tremble and want to get out.  I was convinced we were done for and this was not helped by the fact the group in front of us got flipped out of their raft.  But we survived.  We continued downstream scaring ourselves witless and then having some genteel bits in between where we swam alongside the boat.  It was really beautiful and amazing to think of just where we were. 

That's me - front left

We had a light lunch half way through the day, sat in our rafts.  We were handed half a pineapple each and a packet of biscuits.  It certainly kept us going.  It was all great fun and then we came to the final rapid.  We knew we were in for trouble when Josh – our instructor/guide – insisted on checking all of our lifejackets and helmets.  I was made to stand up and had a complete readjustment.  Then he broke it to us “Guys – you will not stay dry on this one”.  So we were in for a dunking.  You know it’s going to be bad when you can hear the rapid for some time before you actually see it and this one was savage.  There were huge dips in the water and whirlpools and high waves.  I was shaking with fear.  We were going to die.  As with every rapid, Josh advised us what to do if we got flipped out of the raft.  For most of them the advice was to swim back to the raft and hold on to the rope.  For this one, it was simply swim forward. 

The moment before we back-flipped

He then piled us all in the back and sat Caitlin on the prow.  We could see where this was going.  All the weight was at the back.  We didn’t stand a chance – we wouldn’t have made it through without incident anyway, so I think this was Josh having “fun” with us.  We battled through a few big waves and got thrown about and then you knew there was no point hanging on anymore – the raft flipped to the side and backwards and over we went. 

I was lucky to be thrown to the side so did not get stuck under the boat.  The water was pulling us up and pushing us down again.  The currents were so strong.  I let myself relax slightly and found the water just pulled me downstream.  I could see one of the safety kayaks in the distance so knew I would be OK.  One came to my rescue and I got a few seconds rest before he had to go and help the non-swimmer in our group.  I came to a halt about half a km downstream and met up with the others.  We were all hauled back into the raft and paddled to the bank where we got out and had a shower and a lovely meal before heading back to Kampala.  It was enormous fun and I will be going again!

Into Africa with the parents

Boldly going where not that many have gone before and after months of planning, my parents finally arrived in Rwanda.  I went off to the airport to meet them feeling slightly anxious.  And when I saw them we all had a good cry.  I was surprised at myself! 

The first couple of days we spent in Kigali, allowing Mum and Dad a little time to adjust to Africa (although I would say Rwanda is probably Africa for beginners – it being quite small and clean and with a pleasant climate).  We toured the (few) sights of Kigali and went to the St Patrick’s Day party (see previous blog post) and then it was off for a few days in Kibungo.  We had to pile onto the bus for this part and there was much excitement at the bus station.  People were shifted off the back seat and the three of us and the three massive suitcases were loaded onto it.  I wasn’t sure how comfortable the parents would find the trip, but some of them seemed to relax into it...

Justin had laid on a lovely welcome, despite having been knocked off his bike on the way to work and splitting his head open (we administered additional first aid and it is now well recovered).  It was really nice to be able to show Mum and Dad around Kibungo.  They will now know what I am talking about when I tell them I have been to see the dressmakers, or been to the market, or post office and so on.  Dad’s favourite place was St Joe’s and we had quite a few evenings up there sampling the cold Mutzig and sizzling beef.  Mum got more into the spirit of things and joined me for goat brochettes.



Road hogs!

On one of the days Mum and Dad accompanied me on a trip to one of my schools.  It is usually exciting enough for the children when I arrive, but three of us at once?!  As our motorbikes pulled up, several hundred children escaped classrooms and ran across the grass screaming out “abazungu!”  They then greeted us as the Head Teacher wanted them to with a chorus of “good morning our visitors”.  We met some of the teachers and my parents got a little insight into life in school.  The teachers were very welcoming and were more than happy to pose for a photograph.  And fair play to the parents who managed the one hour journey on the moto there and back.  It’s a bumpy ride but is made slightly less painful by the views along the way.

Toughing it out on the beach

In a bid to see a bit more of the East African Community, we managed to spend a few days in Zanzibar.  The resort was beautiful (we all eventually agreed) and we spent a couple of great days just lazing on the beach.  Rainy season seemed to be rather late in arriving so we were blessed with beautiful weather.  Well rested from this we also visited Stone Town and stayed in the same hotel I went to at Christmas.  I even got the same room!  We had a nice time strolling the streets and visiting the night food market and enjoying a drink on the balcony in Africa House whilst watching the sun set.

Following this we fitted in a 2night/3 day safari in Tanzania.  The company we went with were called www.itstartedinafrica.com and it was one of the cheapest ones advertised but in all honesty, was far superior to anything I have done before and I would recommend them to anyone.  We had beds in our tents and our own chef and a guide.  It was divine.  We saw loads of wildlife and I finally got to add a rhino to my list of animals seen.  The only hairy bit was when the running board fell off the side of the vehicle mid safari.  Dad and Comfort (the guide) managed to fix it by using the seatbelts to hold it all together and no lions appeared to savage us!

Getting home from Tanzania proved trickier than we thought as the buses are not so great coming towards Rwanda.  We eventually managed it and landed for more time in Kibungo.  We also hired a car and had a good time visiting lots of places – I even had the enormous luxury of doing a shop in Nakumatt and being able to put it all in a car to take home.  I was able to get fresh milk and cornflakes.  A HUGE treat!

A crowd gathers at the roadside when I stop to buy bananas

Eventually it was time for a final trip to St Joe’s for the spectacle of the sizzling beef (I may have written about this before, but basically after about 90mins of waiting, you can hear a sizzling sound coming from the kitchen and next thing, a waiter comes racing around a corner bearing the sizzling dish aloft before plonking it down on the table in front of you where it smokes and sizzles and brings tears to the eyes of everyone in the vicinity and the chillis in the dish make everyone start coughing.  Great fun).

It had been lovely to have Mum and Dad visit.  At first it seemed strange to have them here, but then it almost began to seem normal to see them sat out in the porch each morning.  The house is very quiet now they are gone.  They also brought a case load of goodies from home with them, so thank you so much to everyone who contributed to that – I will be writing letters of thanks.  I am now well stocked up on toiletries and over the Easter weekend I put a good dent in the chocolate stash that arrived.  As for things like jelly beans...they lasted about 10mins one night and then they disappeared (must have been that rat...?).

And the good news is, that they enjoyed the trip and would love to come again if they can.  So all those of you who have been waiting to see how the experiment of my visitors went, it is time to start booking!

St Patrick's Day



Funky deely-boppers, flashing earrings and flags.
And a green dress, of course
 (you just can't see the green Christmas Tree Jo drew on my cheek)

The long anticipated St Patrick’s Day Party in Kigali arrived.  A good bit of planning and organising had gone into it.  I had recently collected two parents from the airport and had given them a day to acclimatise.  They had also arrived armed with green stuff and interesting articles of clothing/decoration for the event. 

The day itself was incredibly busy – there was lots of decorating to be done but I also had to do my role as tour guide.  Having taken Mum and Dad to the Gisozi Memorial in Kigali, I dropped them at a cafe for lunch and made my way to the Manor Hotel to do some decorating.  It was a scorching hot day and I managed to get some sun-burn in the short time I spent outside putting up the bunting on the balcony. 

Mighty fine bunting outside

Eventually we were ready to start partying and we kicked off with two hours of Fr Ted on the big screen, then we watched the rugby and then we had dancing and singing with a raffle in between.  The craic was mighty and everyone seemed to have a great night.  There were plenty of sore heads and feet the next morning (and most likely lots of damaged livers and empty wallets) but I reckon we’ll all be well up for it again next year! (but let’s hope there are more parties in the mean time).