Saturday, 12 May 2012

Rwanda nziza

Although I still have another year to go I do sometimes wonder how much of this experience I will remember when it ends.  Returned volunteers have spoken of the reverse culture shock upon return home, but by all accounts, this does not last long and soon it is possible to be absorbed back into a society of mass consumerism.  So, with that in mind I often think about the things I will miss about Rwanda, in the hope that I can appreciate them all the more whilst I am here.

Things I will miss include; the smell of a freshly cut eucalyptus tree as I pass along the road, the rustle of the wind in the frilled banana tree leaves; beautiful night scented blossoms and frangipani flowers.  The incredible frog chorus that takes place all night at the local swamp following heavy rain.  The jaw dropping looks I still receive each morning as I travel to school and the excited shout of “Muzungu!” and waves of delight from children as they react to me like a child at home may react to seeing a celebrity.
The way that fog can descend in minutes and obscure the surrounding area so completely.  The stars that sparkle so brightly in the sky at night.  The friendly people of this country.  How people here manage to be happy and pleasant despite what little they have.  If only this happiness existed back home.  Here, I greet most people I pass as I walk along the street (and in Africa’s most densely populated country, this equates to a lot of people!) and if I know them, we embrace and shake hands and have a conversation.  There is always time for a conversation with a friend, and if you are late for your next meeting, then so be it. 
I love watching children laugh and play, but they also have responsibilities that children at home would be outraged by – they fetch water and fire wood – hard, manual labour.  Children don’t worry about getting dirty or damaging their clothes.  They run through mud and swing from trees and make skipping ropes and balls from banana leaves.  They run barefoot across uneven ground.  They hold hands as they walk and run the journeys between home and school.  They sit with their arms draped about each others shoulders.
I will miss lying in bed and listening to the rain hammering on my tin roof.  And how lessons have to stop when the rain gets too heavy because no one can hear a word above the noise of the relentless rain.  Also, the way this rain can dry up and disappear in no time at all and suddenly a hot, hot sun is blazing in the sky and I find myself searching for sunglasses, where only moments before I was covered head to foot in waterproof clothing.  I will miss the delicate pitter-patter of rain drops dancing across the smooth, fresh banana leaves.
In the mornings I will wonder where the sound of radios in neighbouring yards has gone and the swiping sound of a brush being swept across an already spotless yard.  I will listen out for the shouting and calling and laughter that passes up and down the street beyond my gate as people go about their daily business.  I will strain to hear the sounds of birds which no longer populate my garden.  I will wonder why I am able to hear my tv programme so well and wonder what has happened to the church goers behind my house, who have fallen so silent.
I will miss getting squashed into a bus and being pressed into conversation with those around me as I try to practise my language skills.  And the warm laughter and smiles that accompany this conversation and the delight that I am at least trying to speak the local language.  I will be sad to get off a bus without it being appropriate to say goodbye to everyone on it and will miss watching the bus pull away from the roadside without smiling faces and waves seeing me off.  It will be a disappointment to go shopping for food and not have to haggle over the price with some friendly banter, and to not have the staff in the supermarket greet me by name and ask after my friends and family.  I will miss the roadside conversations I have with these same people as I pass them as we move about town.
I will miss my incredible moto commutes.  Where I get to see a hundred shades of green spread out across the hillsides and valleys we pass through.  Or the deep valleys that are obscured below by a thick covering of fluffy cloud, of which I am above.  No more will I have to anticipate the route ahead and be prepared to hold on tight as we traverse bumpy roads and I won’t watch the road change shape as the weeks pass and the combined efforts of torrential rain, harsh sunlight and heavy vehicles press and shape the soil to re-shape the road so it is sometimes smooth and sometimes rutted and almost impassable.  There will be no opportunity to exchange pleasantries with the one who will take me on my journey to work that day and I will probably wind up in a crowded carriage full of people who won’t make eye contact and certainly won’t want to talk to a stranger.
I will long for the possibility of walking out to my garden and grazing.  Picking beautiful fresh green beans off the plant and eating a tomato before moving on to the passion fruit vine to collect some fruit.  I will miss my bananas and herbs and peppers and avocadoes, rocket and lettuce and mint and spring onions.  I will miss watching the shadow of the banana trees dance across my walls in the afternoon sun.
No more will I spend time passing time.  Waiting for a meeting, or a lesson to begin, or a bus to arrive, or a bus to depart, or the rain to stop.  Life will be put back on a timetable and will be frantic and stressful and things will matter so much more.  But this will make no sense as the water still runs, the electricity still magically appears, health care is free, school is orderly and well resourced, someone will look after you if you cannot work and people can shop at anytime of the day.  Yet here, time is less important but life hangs on more of a knife edge.  There may be little food, the water and electricity are often off (but many houses are still not connected to a supply anyway).  Daily activities here are more vital to life than anything we do back home, so how will any of it seem to matter?  And despite the difficulties and what we perceive to be hardships, people still smile and get on with it and days pass and life moves on.

Wednesday, 2 May 2012

Cow dung fun

“Imigongo is an art form popular in Rwanda that is produced using cow dung. It is a traditional Rwandan art form made by the women. During the 1994 Genocide the skills involved almost disappeared. However, a women’s cooperative on the road to Rusumo in the Eastern Province near Kirehe, has rescued and revived this uniquely Rwandan art form. Traditionally geometric designs are produced but as the women artists have grown in confidence they have begun to experiment with more modern innovative images that convey the spirit of the Rwandan landscape, its flora and fauna and its people. The images are produced using cow dung which is put onto wooden boards in spiral and geometric designs. The dung is left to harden and is then decorated using colours made from organic material. The traditional colours are black, white, red, grey and beige-yellow but increasingly other colours are used. The imigongo images were originally found in Kibungo inside the walls of huts as "magical" decorations during the 18th century.” Description provided courtesy of Wikipedia

Having heard lots about it and seen many of the designs, I was keen to have a go at making my own bit of imigongo.  So we planned a 2 day workshop at the imigongo cooperative in Kakira, about 45mins away from Kibungo on the way to Tanzania.  On arrival, we were given a tour of the cooperative buildings which is run by a group of genocide widows.  The money made helps to keep the cooperative going but also provides money to support the local community.  We saw lots of pieces of work at different stages of the process.  The work was often intricate and the designs beautiful – both the simple and more complex ones.  Once we had been shown the process of making imigongo, we were given a demonstration of how to apply the cow dung to the board.  Basically you draw your design onto a wooden board in pencil, and then you take small bits of cow dung (mixed with sand and ash and “stuff”) and you mould it with your fingers into little lines along your design.  But they are almost like prisms, so that the base of it melts into the board and it rises to a fine peak.  It is more difficult than you may think to get it so uniform and neat and a reasonable amount of water was used to smooth and re-work the dung.
When finished, I showed my work to the lady who runs the cooperative – Basilice and she did a bit of fine-tuning and tidying up!  The work requires considerable skill and small fingers certainly help – especially if you want to do an intricate design.  Whilst our work was drying, we went for lunch and then reconvened.  Our work was a long way from dry, so we had a go at making another design.  I think many of our second attempts were much better, technically!
Over-night we left the pictures to dry and went to celebrate our hard days work with a superb meal cooked by John’s Pakistani friend, Naseem.  The ladies from the co-op joined us and it turned into a bit of an impromptu party with singing and dancing and, this being Rwanda...speeches.  We had a fine time and eventually it was time to retire to the guest house for a good nights rest.
Next morning, we discovered our designs were still not dry so we sat about chatting and just passing the time in relaxed mode.  We then used our fingers to rub the designs to smooth out the cow dung.  You have to be very gentle in order not to break bits of the design off (see my design with only half a star!).  The next stage was to lightly rub a piece of sand paper over the dung to further smooth it out.
Mine are: third from left on back row
and end of front row
After this we were able to paint our designs.  We began with two base coats, allowing each one to dry before reapplying.  Then we got let loose on the colours and were able to add the finishing touches.  The last part is to apply a fine black line along the fine ridge created in the early stages of the process to make an outline of the design.  Doing this is really tricky and the light was fading, so close-up mine looks a little bit of a mess, but for a first attempt I was pretty pleased.  I only completed one of my designs and that could do with a little bit of a tidy up. I shall have to get hold of some paints to finish the other but I am very much looking forward to admiring them on my walls wherever I end up in the years to come.  They will serve as a reminder of yet another lovely weekend in Rwanda.