My life as a (very minor) “celebrity”

Since arriving in Rwanda, but more particularly in Kibungo, I have begun to gain an insight into the hard time that celebrities have being “spotted” all the time.  I am so exotic in town, that it is perfectly normal for me to hear the cries of “Mazungu!” at least 50 times a day.  This happens as I walk down the street, go into a shop, board a bus, or whiz past on a moto.  It is quite strange to hear someone shout to you to alert you that they have seen you and you are something of a shock, but for them to not use your name – I can almost imagine how the stars of Eastenders and Corrie must feel when people shout out their screen name.

It is also quite common for people to crane to get a good look at me.  Several people have tripped up as they have been so busy looking at me, they have not paid attention to the path in front of them.  I am not entirely sure how best to respond to this, and have so far just tried to say good morning/afternoon and ask after their health in Kinyarwanda.  This usually so surprises/delights them that the awkward feel is removed from the situation.  I still can’t hold much of a conversation though.

At one school this week, almost the entire school surrounded myself and Cathy as we left the staff room to walk to a classroom.  There was a crowd of children 8 or 9 deep all the way around us.  Some of them were touching my skin.  A large number of them continued to watch with curiosity through the classroom window as we taught even though they were sent away by the class teacher and should have been in their own lesson.

This evening, my minor celebrity status made my journey home slightly easier and less daunting than I expected.  I made my first round trip to Kigali (about 2hrs away by bus).  The journey there was fine, but on the way home I could not get a direct bus.  At the ticket desk, several people assisted me in buying my ticket and getting me on the correct bus.  This was great, and once I said good evening to everyone on the bus, we got on with the journey.  At Kayonza I had to change buses.  The bus station is basically a huge bus park with buses going in all directions.  There are many different companies and types of service – I was quite uncertain how I was going to find the bus going in the right direction with my very limited Kinyarwanda....I needn’t have worried.  The mazungu descended the bus and was immediately approached by several ticket sellers.  I told them where I wanted to go to, and they checked all of the buses for me.  They were so helpful, that I just sat down at the side of the bus park and let the Friday rush hour continue around me.  When a bus going my way did turn up, they immediately came to find me and got me to the bus.  Once on the bus, I could hear people talking about me, so I greeted them in Kinyarwanda and maintained a short conversation about my name and their name and where I was going and what job I did and then there was much hilarity when it was realised I could not say anymore or understand any more questions.  We then discovered a man on the same bus who could speak some English and he did a little bit of translating for a while before we all let the motion of the bus lull us into quiet.  I never have chats like that on the bus at home.  And, at the end of my journey, all my new friends helped me get my bags off the bus and wished me well on my way.  Rwandans might be incredibly curious but they are certainly very friendly and helpful at all times, for which I am very grateful!